Collection: Occasionwear Fabrics

Surface first

An evening cloth is judged on its surface, not its hand. A jacquard carries the pattern in the weave, so it reads the same from any angle. Sequins and lurex throw light back in one direction and go dark in another. Mesh and guipure work by what shows through them, which makes the lining under them part of the design rather than an afterthought.

Sewing sequins, mesh and metallic yarn

Sequinned cloth blunts a needle and chews a blade: it is usually cut in single layers, and the sequins come out of the seam allowance before stitching. Mesh and guipure want a narrow finish rather than a turned hem. Lurex can be felt against the skin, which is the usual reason these fabrics are lined even when they are opaque.

One piece, one length

This selection turns over faster than the rest of the catalogue: short mill runs and atelier surpluses, mostly French, and a cloth that suited one particular dress rarely comes back. If the design depends on it, take the full length. The minimum cut is on each product page.

FAQ

What fabric is used for evening dresses?

Jacquard, crêpe, satin, chiffon, velvet, mesh and sequinned cloth, depending on how much shape the dress has to hold. Heavy jacquard and matelassé hold it, chiffon and mesh are layered over a lining.

How do you sew sequinned fabric?

Cut single-layer, take the sequins out of the seam allowances, fit a fresh needle and lengthen the stitch. A lining keeps the cut edges of the sequins off the skin.

Is lurex fabric scratchy?

Metallic yarn is firmer than textile yarn and can be felt on the skin. A lining, or a facing at the neckline and the armholes, settles it.

What is guipure?

A lace with no net ground: the motifs are joined to one another by bars, and the cloth is open between them. It is cut and finished at the edge of the motif rather than hemmed.